Volterra, in the heart of Tuscany: typical Tuscan handicraft
If you want to visit a more unusual part of the Tuscany, then maybe you’ll be interested to discover Volterra and the surrounding territories, between medieval architectures and huge chasms, in an area sometimes harsh but infinitely fascinating: the area of the metalliferous hills of the Sienese hills. This is one of the most beautiful areas of Tuscany, a few km from San Gimignano, Siena and Chianti Classico.
When you approach Volterra, the village presents itself on the top of a hill of yellow clay rocks. The city is completely closed in thirteenth century walls, and is still a place full of art, and charm that can delight and inspire directors like Luchino Visconti who set his “Vaghe Stelle dell’Orsa” in 1965.
Enter the village through the Selci door – one of the etruscan doors included in the walls surrounding the village – there is a street on the left that leads to the Parco Archeologico Enrico Fiumi (Archaeological Park Enrico Fiumi) (open hours: 8.30am – 8pm during summer, 8.30am – 5pm in winter): it is a magnificent public space filled with history and parkland just behind the walls.
From the park it’s possible to enter into the medieval heart of Volterra. On your left there is the ristorante del Duca (restaurant of the Duke) (Via del Castello 2, closed on Tuesdays), one of the most famous restaurants of the area where you can taste the traditional cuisine. Continuing you will enter into the majestic Piazza dei Priori, where every year in mid-August, takes place the historical re-enactments with flag bearers and musicians.
I recommend you get to the church of San Giusto, with the typical straight and sober front, surrounded by a beautiful green lawn and rows of cypresses. It is also worth while to move further along the cliffs, the huge chasms carved by water has engulfed, over the centuries, the Etruscan necropolis and church.
To get there, keep on going after San Giusto till you reach a dirt clearing (the directions are required). Park here and take the path that runs along the escarpment and allows you to get to what remains of the Etruscan walls, one of the wonders of Volterra.
Near Volterra you can also visit the “Saline di Volterra”, where salt was extracted by exploiting the many pools of brine. Leaving Volterra take the southwest on SR68, direct to the heart of the Metalliferous Hills. Just before entering in Saline, the Quad Green Tour offers the opportunity to explore the area in a differnt and funny way.
What to visit in Volterra. Among the many things to visit in Volterra it is certainly worth while checking out the Etruscan Museum Guarnacci Mario, famous for the extensive collection of Etruscan urns (over 600 pieces): among them the “Urn of the Spouses” from the first century BC and the Shadow of the Night, so named by the poet Gabriele D’Annunzio.
Not far from the central square there is the Art Gallery (Pinacoteca) and the Museum in sixteenth-century palace Solaini, attributed to Antonio da Sangallo the Elder. Among the most interesting works: Cristo in Gloria (1492) by Ghirlandaio; Madonna con Bambino e Santi (1491) by Luca Signorelli; Deposizione dalla Croce (1521) by Rosso Fiorentino. The elegant “Piazza dei Priori” is dominated by the “Palazzo dei Priori” of 1208: this is the oldest municipal building of Tuscany and is architecturally similar to the “Palazzo Vecchio” in Florence.
Across the square stands the Torre del Porcellino, of the thirteenth century. In Piazza San Giovanni, there is the Cathedral: its construction began in the thirteenth century and continued over the following two centuries. The front, adorned with a large rose window and a monumental portal, was attributed to Nicola Pisano. Inside you can find many valuable works: at the sides of the main altar there are two candlestick angels carved in 1471 by Mino da Fiesole. The tabernacle, by the same artist, is decorated with allegories of the theological virtues. The pulpit at the center of the nave, dates from 1584, but in its construction some relieves of the eleventh and twelfth century were used. In the second chapel of the right transept there is the polychrome wooden group of the 1128 with the Deposizione. On the bottom left of the niche we find the “Cavalcata dei Re Magi” by Benozzo Gozzol.
Opposite the cathedral, is the fourteenth-century baptistry that has an octagonal dome attributed to Brunelleschi. Inside there is the “baptismal font” by Sansovino. In the north part there are the remains (excavatedin the early fifties), of a Roman Theatre, dating back to the first century BC – first century A.D
Historical notes on Volterra. Volterra, surrounded by 7 km of walls dating back to the fourth century BC was one of the most important Etruscan town, whose power was derived from the mining of alum, iron, copper and silver, and minerals and exportation throughout the Mediterranean. Later Volterra became a Roman municipium and an important bishop’s residence. In 1193 Volterra became free but lost its independence again in 1472, because of the occupation of Florence. Volterra gained its splendor in the late eighteenth century, because of its efforts to support production activities promoted by the Grand Duchy of Lorraine.